A story by SHELBY DE ROND. There is nothing so sweet as gingerbread. This is the first thing my grandmother taught me, and the only one that has lasted the slow decay of time. There is nothing so sweet as gingerbread. Not syrup. Not mildew. Not even fruit picked fresh from the tree. Of course, you have to get it right; what is the use of gingerbread that is too coarse, or too limp, or too small? Gingerbread dreams, beats, breathes when you make it right: full of love, full of ghosts, full of cinnamon and flour. The batter is mud like we were once mud. Strange dust, full of time and memory and the scent of a forgotten god, spins flavour into the waiting air. Cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg: these spices match the fire Prometheus once stole. Sugar, too, but that is not what makes it sweet. That is in the…Continue Reading


ROSE GABBERTAS contemplates how the Covid-19 lockdown has affected the UK’s problematic relationship with food and food waste.   Scrolling past yet another banana bread photo on Instagram, it’s easy to feel cynical about the clichés of lockdown cooking that have exploded as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic. Yet the onslaught of sourdough starters that heralded the nation’s return to wholesome home-cooking signals a much more significant shift in the way Britons think and feel about food.   Long before Boris Johnson implemented a nationwide lockdown in late March, supermarket shelves across Britain were swept clean, having been emptied of essentials like toilet paper and pasta by a hysterical wave of panic-buyers. As a direct result of consumer stockpiling and compromised supply chains, many people experienced scarcity for the first time in their lives. Forced to stare at the hard reality that food is, in fact, finite, we began to value,…Continue Reading

Food in the Time of Covid-19